ESTIMATE...don't 'guesstimate'...the weight of your horse!



Why do you need to know how much your horse weighs, I hear you ask? Well it's actually pretty handy info to have when it comes to dosing for worms and working out a feeding schedule. Under-dosing for worms is almost as bad as not dosing at all, as it not only wastes your money but also scarcely makes a dent in your horse's worm population, which will soon re-group and continue their destructive life-cycle.

The most accurate method of finding out much your horse weighs is to use a weighbridge but as few people have access to one of these, the next best thing is to use the charts provided here. They won't be exact, but close enough!

The first chart is based on your horse's Condition Score and height. Here in Australia horses are rated from 0 to 5 by their condition...0 being extreme with no condition, to 5 which is very fat. Be totally honest when you use the guide, maybe ask someone who isn't so emotionally attached to your horse to score for you.

If your horse scores a 0 or 1, then he must, must MUST get seen by a vet and horse dentist immediately as he is not only starving, but could also attract the attention of the RSPCA who will have the power to remove the horse from your care.

At the other end of the scale, 5 indicates your horse is obese and could be in danger of founder, so his feed intake should be restricted, especially during Spring.

Your horse's condition score is also a good indication of his diet...if his score (and weight) drops, then he will need to have his diet reviewed and supplemented with extra hard feed and more importantly, unlimited access to good quality grazing or grass hay. Don't make the mistake of giving your horse a couple of extra biscuits of hay...if there's little or no grazing available then a horse needs three-quarters to a whole bale of hay PER DAY. That's not one bale shared by a couple of horses, thatÕs one bale per horse, per day.

In the wild, horses eat slowly for most of the day and night, grazing over large areas for up to 18 hours a day, picking out the most nutritious grasses. They need to eat so much grass (or hay) because it doesn't have much energy compared to the foods we eat, so they have to eat a lot more to supply their everyday energy requirements. If they don't have access to this roughage, they lose weight...it's as simple as that.

It's also important that food is passing constantly through their digestive system...'little and often' is the best rule to apply to a horse's diet. His stomach isn't equipped to handle large amounts of grain fed all at once, which could lead to colic.

If your horse's condition score increases, then well done...you're doing a great job but do keep an eye out for founder. So watch out if your horse's spine disappears beneath fat, or he begins to develop a cresty neck! A horseÕs woolly Winter coat could be hiding his condition, so you might need to feel for his ribs and bones.

You can also purchase weight tapes from saddlery and feed stores...these are used by wrapping the tape around the horse's girth and reading the measurement. They aren't suitable for foals and miniature ponies, and can be inaccurate on high-withered horses.


Left-hand table: Estimate the condition score of your horse and using a ruler, drae a line from your horse's score, to his height. Where the line crosses in the middle is approximately your horse's weight.

Right-hand table: Measure your horse's girth and length (see diagram below) and draw a line from your horse's girth measurement to his length measurement. Where the line crosses the middle is approximately your horse's weight.



The height measurement should be taken when your horse is standing square on even ground, and the measurement taken from the highest point at the wither. Make an allowance for horse shoes.


© 2006 Horsewyse Magazine. Cartoon © Peta Taylor. No part of this article may be reproduced without permission.

CONDIION SCORING GUIDE

Very poor–condition score 0
Extreme ewe neck, narrow when viewed from the front and slack at the base of the neck. Skin tight over ribs, which are easily visible and prominent viewed from any angle. Skin tight over pelvis, with visible angular bones, visible deep recesses below croup. Sharp spine with no muscle either side. No muscle or fat around base of the tail, deep recessed cavity beneath the tail

Poor–condition score 1
Ewe neck, narrow when viewed from the front and slack at the base of the neck. Ribs easily visible and prominent at any angle. Sunken rump but skin supple, shallow recesses below the croup. Skin sunken either side of the back bone, easily visible spine. No muscle or fat around the base of the tail, marked cavity beneath the tail.

Moderate–condition score 2
Neck straight but narrow, firm to the touch with some muscular support. Ribs just visible when viewed from the side or at an angle. Croup well defined with some fat, hip bones can be felt, smooth curve from croup to point of hip when viewed from behind. Backbone well covered, spine bones can still be felt but does not protrude. Some fat around buttocks and tail base, slight cavity beneath the tail.

Good–condition score 3
No crest (except in stallions), firm, muscular neck. Ribs just covered, can be felt but not seen. Bones can be felt but not seen, smooth around rump when viewed from behind; no gutter either side of the croup. Backbone well covered, spine bones can still be felt with pressure, smooth curve, no gutter. Some fat around the dock, buttocks more rounded, no cavity beneath the tail.

Fat–condition score 4
Slight crest, thick neck with some fat deposited on the underside. Ribs well covered, need firm pressure to feel. Pelvis covered by soft fat, bones can be felt only with firm pressure; v-shaped gutter visible above croup from behind. Clearly visible gutter along backbone, spine bones can only be felt with firm pressure. Fatty deposit bulges above tail base, guttering extends to base of the tail, buttocks fatty and round.

Very fat–condition score 5
Marked crest, neck very wide and firm with folds of fat. Ribs buried and can't be felt. Deep gutter along rump, bones cannot be felt, skin stretched, fatty lumps over rump. Deep gutter along spine, back wide and flat. Large deposit of fat around root of the tail, fatty lumps along buttocks.

NOTE: If your horse scores a 0 or a 1, then he or she requires urgent treatment by a vet and horse dentist, along with worming, regular feeding and access to abundant good quality grazing or hay.